|
|
From the collection of the Cape Cod Pilgrim Memorial Association
Fishermen washing fish at Philip Whorf's Wharf. |
|
|
History Highlights
Portuguese Christmas In Provincetown
Laurel Guadazno
BANNER COLUMNIST
One of the questions often asked by visitors is about the Portuguese community in Provincetown. When did the Portuguese begin coming to town and is there still a large Portuguese community here? Unfortunately, not much has been written about the Portuguese community and its traditions. Mary Heaton Vorse has a chapter in her book 'Time and the Town' about the Portuguese, but one hesitates to trust only the views of someone who was not even a member of the community.
Someone who was a well-respected member of the community and whose understanding can be trusted was the late Grace Gouveia Collinson. In an introduction to 'Traditional Portuguese Recipes from Provincetown,' written by Mary Alice Cook, Collinson writes, 'The first Portuguese to come in numbers to Provincetown were the Cape Verdeans, brought over by whaling captains in the early part of the 19th century at the heyday of the whaling industry. The captains were finding it increasingly difficult to recruit men from New England for their whaling expeditions, trips that would often last up to two or even three years in length and involved great hardship and danger. So the whale ships would sail with a skeleton crew directly to the Cape Verde Islands to hire young men anxious to see the world, or, less romantically maybe, to escape conscription. These 'Bravas' proved to be ideal workers, earning what was to them great wealth, sufficient to settle in America and take an American wife, or send for a sweetheart from home.'
The immigration that started in the whaling days continued with the greatest number of Portuguese coming in the decade between 1911 and 1920, according to Vorse. It is important to note that, as Collinson says, 'The early Portuguese of Provincetown ... were divided into three groups - the continentals, locally known as 'Lisbons'; the Azoreans, often called 'St.Michaels'; and natives from the Cape Verde Islands off the coast of Africa, identified also as 'Bravas', a name given to them by whaling captains in honor of their great courage.'
The influx of Portuguese to Provincetown changed the character of the community, especially during the winter. Many residents remember the dances held at Town Hall during the winter. Mary Alice Cook wrote a wonderful introduction to her book of recipes, in which she remembers, 'the dances that were held in the winter every year in Town Hall. Portuguese dancing was held in Caucus Hall and American dancing was held in the main hall upstairs. These parties were free of charge and entire families attended. The children had as much fun as the grown-ups. I remember one incident that stands out in my mind at one of these dances ... one of our dear Portuguese ladies lost her half-slip while dancing the Baile de Roda (circle dance). She calmly picked it up and continued dancing, much to the chagrin of the more prim ladies and the cheering of the young people.'
Mary Heaton Vorse recalls that, 'The high point of the winter was the Fisherman's Ball. The Fishermen's Association had been formed the year before to oppose a law which had been slipped into the legislature by the Atlantic Coast Fisheries. ...The ball in the winter of '39 was on a blizzard night, but that kept no one home. Here was real Provincetown. There were not more than a dozen summer people. You couldn't get a ticket to the Fishermen's Ball. It was strictly by invitation, and invitations were much sought after. It was a fine, gay party with one of the best bands from Boston and with interesting fish-net decorations.'
Christmas for the fishermen was celebrated with open houses all over town. People would stroll from house to house enjoying special sweets served only at the holiday. Mary Alice Cook remembers, 'These sweets took several days to make. My mother and her dear friend, Alice Oliver, would get together and help one another to make them. My sister Jocelyn and I would help to rollout the dough, a very tedious job as the dough had to be rolled out very thin and even on the pastry board. However, the hard work and time spent preparing theses sweets was forgotten when my other's face beamed with joy as she took them out of the oven ready to be enjoyed by all. On Christmas Eve, we held 'open house' and we often had as many as 75 or 100 people visit us during the Christmas season. 'Troubadours came round to all the houses accompanied by musicians and sang songs to the 'Meninho Jesus' (Child Jesus) at the beautiful altar my brother Mannie made every year. They would then eat and drink a little, and go on to the next 'open house'. When the troubadours knocked on the door they would ask 'Ou meninho miza?' meaning 'Does the child wet?' - in other words, 'Is there something to drink in the house?' My mother set up a large dining room table covered with all the gorgeous sweets and drinks - there was homemade whisky and homemade wine. I still make make many of these sweets and set a table at Christmas time, though not as elaborate as the one my mother prepared, to welcome anyone who might stop in, but somehow, the spirit of Christmas does not seem to be the same as it was in the past. I will always remember and cherish those truly blessed and beautiful Christmases of my youth.'
Mary Alice Cook wrote her book in 1984. It is interesting to note that even then, people were looking back with nostalgia at Christmases past. The Portuguese tradition of holding an open house on Christmas Eve and strolling troubadours would be a wonderful one to revive. I'm sure it would bring back childhood memories of Christmas during a simpler time for many of us.
[Laurel Guadazno is Visitor Services Manager for the Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum. She also writes and narrates 'History Highlights,' heard regularly on WOMR, 92.1 FM.]
|
Sewer fund surplus may bring rate cut
Posted meetings
Outer Cape Worship Services
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 17th, 2008