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An old popular postcard mentioned by Mary Heaton Vorse. This card was sent to a man in Peabody, and the message read, “Marion sends her love. George.”
Shopping for Souvenirs

When Mary Heaton Vorse returned to Provincetown in the autumn of 1936, she noted with disappointment that the town and all New England had changed from earning its living farming and fishing to the business of tourism. Then, as it still is now, shopping was one of the most popular activities for travelers. Vorse’s disdain for the shops that sprung up to cater to tourists is evident in her description: “The town is checkered with small and desperate trades — have your silhouette done, wait for a picture to be painted, get your caricature. There are shops which sell sandals, African masks, etchings, hooked rugs, handmade jewelry, pottery, and the midtown shops which have every sort of gadget for the boat tourists.” With fishing in decline and transportation to town by ferry or train convenient, residents seized the opportunity presented to them and turned to renting rooms and selling trinkets to tourists.

“Thirty-five years ago,” Mary Heaton Vorse reminisced, “Berry had the only antique shop. He had a round sign which read on one side, ‘Antiques.’ Come September 15, when the boat stopped, Berry turned this sign around. It then read ‘Old Junk.’ Then the only Souvenir of Provincetown which one could buy was a picture postcard of the back view of an enormous woman in a bathing suit which reached her ankles. On her capacious rear were printed the words, ‘It floats!’”

Travelers have always brought home souvenirs. At first it may have only been a rock or a shell from the beach, or as in the case of the Pilgrims perhaps a bit of corn to plant in the garden. These objects brought to mind a place. The throngs of people stepping in and out of the shops on Commercial Street haven’t changed much; what travelers still desire is a keepsake to remind them of their vacation. What they buy depends upon their personal taste and how much money is in their pocket.

During the Victorian age there was a wish for finer things, many of which were items for the home: knick-knacks and novelties to be displayed in cabinets. Photography had advanced to a point where it was available to the average person in the form of stereoscopic views. The traveler could share the sights depicted with friends and family often impressing them with the wondrous places of interest they had seen.

From 1890 to the 1930s scenic china with images of historic sites became popular. Later, picture postcards evolved, still one of the most popular and readily available purchases. Saltwater taffy, beach plum or cranberry jelly, and “mouthwatering” fudge have all been popular purchases for years. Bayberry candles were once common but are now difficult to find. Printed T-shirts or baseball caps are relatively new additions.

In 1942, Mary Heaton Vorse wrote “Time and the Town” and remembered, “Provincetown had, for many years, been noted for its interesting stores. The Hook-rug Shop of the Coulton Waughs was famous in its day. There have been many fine antique shops like that of Mrs. Young’s, or the unique stores, like the inimitable Peter Hunt Peasant Village. There is a group of fine craftsmen who make jewelry or carve wood, blow glass, embroider and sell interesting wares from the four seas; yet knick-knacks are what first strike the traveler’s eye. Even the children sell decorated clamshells along the sides of the streets.” More than 60 years later much is the same. Provincetown is still known for its appealing stores, children still sell seashells by the seashore, and shopping consistently ranks high on the list of popular vacation activities.

[Laurel Guadazno is curator of education for the Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum.]
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